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Paris Fashion Week get the blues with politics suddenly fashionable

Le 7 mars 2017, 07:07 dans Humeurs 0

While its exact symbolism is up for debate, one thing is certain at Paris Fashion Week: blue is the colour of the season.

Designers have used the hue in their fall-winter collections, including Britain’s Phoebe Philo at Celine, Italy’s Maria Grazia Chi­uri at Dior, Japan’s Yoshiyuki ­Miyamae at Issey Miyake, Georgia’s David Koma at Mugler and Lebanon’s Elie Saab.

Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s gentle and thoughtful Valentino collection yesterday combined Victorian-era styles with Italian postmodern design.

Colours were also gentle — raspberry, sage green, turquoise, sheeny black with white. A stylish flash of cadmium yellow blossomed on a standout silken dress. An ethnic, multi-coloured patchwork coat was handled with subtlety — while long, soft pleats gently lined some of the most beautiful gowns seen this season.

Designer Phoebe Philo seemed to shrink the models in her inventive, proportion-play of a Celine show.

The lauded designer tamed the styles of the American cowgirl for the Parisian audience with a beautifully soft colour palette, with lashings of pink and peach. Skirts and coats with hip cutouts evoked cowboy chaps.

Prints with cowboy and rodeo motifs speckled with stars followed buttoned-up shirts, belts with exaggerated silver buckles, checks and hanging pendants with cowboy- style silver clasps.

A standout long coat-pant look toyed cleverly with the rodeo style. Feminine soft turquoise replaced blue denim, and the big Western leather collar was given a feminine twist, flopping softly and delicately.

Bill Gaytten, who designs for the house of John Galliano, took guests down the annals of fashion history.

It made for a richly reverential show that celebrated post-war styles and played with off-kilter proportion. Black ostrich feather hats were re-imagined in exaggerated width.

Coats that resembled the influential 1947 Bar Jacket, invented by Christian Dior where John Galliano worked for 15 years, were given a tweak with bulbous lower part and military buttons.

Meet the London designer making the dresses of your dreams

Le 7 février 2017, 08:24 dans Humeurs 0

“There is nothing worse than ‘clothing wearing you’, not the other way around,” says London-based designer Rejina Pyo whose line of brightly coloured lady-like dresses, exaggerated silhouettes and playful textures have been a fashion favourite for some time now.

Meet the London designer making the dresses of your dreams

The line, which has now been picked up by over 60 stores worldwide, can easily be spotted in fashion week crowds, earning the fashionable wearer much street style kudos.

“I design my collection to last in women’s wardrobe as long as possible, I want the brand to offer something that’s related to the modern women’s everyday life,” the designer says of her desire to forego trends and aim for longevity not only in the pieces she creates but as a way of future-proofing her brand.

“There’s so much to love about Rejina’s aesthetic: the ease, the subtlety, and the striking details. But I think what truly sets her apart is her attention to cut. Her thoughtful silhouettes and expert tailoring skills really showcase an understanding of a modern woman’s lifestyle. The results are undoubtedly beautiful clothes, but also smart clothes—something rarely seen in someone so young. I think this bodes well for her evolution and the longevity of the label,” says Coco Chan, Stylebop's head of womenswear, who now carry the brand.

After completing her MA in fashion at Central Saint Martins in 2011, the Korean-born Pyo, worked alongside British designer Roksanda Ilincic and scooped up the prestigious Han Nefkens Fashion Award “for exceptional work by a designer working at the cutting edge of fashion and art”, meaning her fashion credentials are exceptional to say the least.

“If you are wearing something with volume, I would keep everything else simple,” Pyo confirms when we quiz her on mastering volume and texture sartorially. “Try to mix different textures or unexpected colours together; a cashmere jumper with shiny texture or pink with khaki,’ she confirms.

We trust in Pyo and see big things in the designer’s future.

Following the Followers of Fashion

Le 18 janvier 2017, 09:08 dans Humeurs 0

Fashion companies worried that they no longer understand their customers are desperately seeking information about shoppers. But they struggle to create a coherent picture from the data.

Models present creations by Dimitri at the Berlin Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2016 in Berlin

Berlin is in the throes of Fashion Week, with catwalk shows being held in former power plants, closed-down department stores, train stations and art galleries.

Tens of thousands of purchasing agents will spend the week criss-crossing the city from show to trade fair in a desperate search for whatever new trend might attract their customers.

Berlin Fashion Week takes place twice a year and is sponsored by Mercedes Benz. The event is an umbrella for a dozen different fashion trade fairs that take place all over the city.

This week’s largest trade shows are Premium, held in a former postal railway station, and Panorama, located on Berlin’s trade-fair grounds. At other smaller fairs, leisure wear is also in focus, with Seek and Bright dedicating their shows to all things casual. Sustainable fashion is also currently en vogue with two fairs – the Greenshowroom and the Ethical Fashion Show – featuring exclusively ecologically sound clothes.

The German fashion industry has been panicking since big retailers Steilmann, Strenesse and Wöhrl went bankrupt last year. Also, purchasing is down as shoppers increasingly hunt for bargains. Industry observers like Dutch trend researcher Lidewij Edelkoort, who advises high-end brands, sees the need for real change: “The fashion industry must redevelop everything from the ground up.”

Clothing makers are urgently trying to find ways to discover what their customers want. “Right now, companies are grabbing all the customer data they can get,” said Andreas Brandenberg, head of the Institute for Communication and Marketing at Lucerne University.

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