Le 7 mars 2017, 07:07 dans Humeurs • 0
While its exact symbolism is up for debate, one thing is certain at Paris Fashion Week: blue is the colour of the season.
Designers have used the hue in their fall-winter collections, including Britain’s Phoebe Philo at Celine, Italy’s Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, Japan’s Yoshiyuki Miyamae at Issey Miyake, Georgia’s David Koma at Mugler and Lebanon’s Elie Saab.
Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s gentle and thoughtful Valentino collection yesterday combined Victorian-era styles with Italian postmodern design.
Colours were also gentle — raspberry, sage green, turquoise, sheeny black with white. A stylish flash of cadmium yellow blossomed on a standout silken dress. An ethnic, multi-coloured patchwork coat was handled with subtlety — while long, soft pleats gently lined some of the most beautiful gowns seen this season.
Designer Phoebe Philo seemed to shrink the models in her inventive, proportion-play of a Celine show.
The lauded designer tamed the styles of the American cowgirl for the Parisian audience with a beautifully soft colour palette, with lashings of pink and peach. Skirts and coats with hip cutouts evoked cowboy chaps.
Prints with cowboy and rodeo motifs speckled with stars followed buttoned-up shirts, belts with exaggerated silver buckles, checks and hanging pendants with cowboy- style silver clasps.
A standout long coat-pant look toyed cleverly with the rodeo style. Feminine soft turquoise replaced blue denim, and the big Western leather collar was given a feminine twist, flopping softly and delicately.
Bill Gaytten, who designs for the house of John Galliano, took guests down the annals of fashion history.
It made for a richly reverential show that celebrated post-war styles and played with off-kilter proportion. Black ostrich feather hats were re-imagined in exaggerated width.
Coats that resembled the influential 1947 Bar Jacket, invented by Christian Dior where John Galliano worked for 15 years, were given a tweak with bulbous lower part and military buttons.